<div class="bg-white rounded-lg p-4 border border-blue-200">
  <h3 class="font-semibold text-blue-900 mb-3 flex items-center">
    <span class="bg-blue-100 text-blue-600 rounded-full w-8 h-8 flex items-center justify-center mr-2">🔧</span>
    Check Wire Connections
  </h3>
  <p class="text-blue-700 mb-2">Loose connections at switchboard or fan canopy can cause voltage drop. With power OFF, check all terminal screws at regulator, fan canopy, and junction box. Tighten any loose connections.</p>
  <div class="bg-yellow-100 rounded p-3 text-sm text-yellow-800">
    <strong>⚠️ Warning Sign:</strong> If wires feel warm/hot, or you see blackening around terminals—indicates loose connection or overloaded circuit. Fix immediately.
  </div>
</div>

<div class="bg-white rounded-lg p-4 border border-blue-200">
  <h3 class="font-semibold text-blue-900 mb-3 flex items-center">
    <span class="bg-blue-100 text-blue-600 rounded-full w-8 h-8 flex items-center justify-center mr-2">🏘️</span>
    Indian Power Grid Context
  </h3>
  <p class="text-blue-700 mb-2">Common voltage issues in India: Evening power cuts/fluctuations, load shedding, shared transformers in apartments. These affect ALL fans, not just one.</p>
  <div class="grid md:grid-cols-2 gap-3 mt-3">
    <div class="bg-purple-100 rounded p-3">
      <strong class="text-purple-800">🏙️ Urban Areas:</strong>
      <p class="text-purple-700 text-sm mt-1">Voltage usually stable 210-230V. Low voltage rare unless old building wiring.</p>
    </div>
    <div class="bg-orange-100 rounded p-3">
      <strong class="text-orange-800">🌾 Rural Areas:</strong>
      <p class="text-orange-700 text-sm mt-1">Voltage fluctuations common (180-240V range). Consider stabilizer or inverter with voltage regulation.</p>
    </div>
  </div>
</div>

<details class="bg-white rounded-lg shadow-md">
  <summary class="px-6 py-4 cursor-pointer font-semibold hover:bg-gray-50">
    Q: Can I use a higher µF capacitor to make my fan run faster?
  </summary>
  <div class="px-6 pb-4 border-t text-gray-700">
    <p class="mt-3"><strong>A:</strong> <strong>No, don't do this!</strong> Using significantly higher µF capacitor (e.g., 3.5µF instead of 2.5µF) can damage motor winding over time due to excessive current. It may seem faster initially, but you'll burn the motor winding within months. Always use exact rating (±10% tolerance okay, e.g., 2.25-2.75µF for 2.5µF fan). If fan is genuinely slow with correct capacitor, the problem is elsewhere—bearings, voltage, or winding damage.</p>
  </div>
</details>

<details class="bg-white rounded-lg shadow-md">
  <summary class="px-6 py-4 cursor-pointer font-semibold hover:bg-gray-50">
    Q: How do I know if problem is regulator vs capacitor vs bearings?
  </summary>
  <div class="px-6 pb-4 border-t text-gray-700">
    <p class="mt-3"><strong>A:</strong> Use this diagnostic logic: <strong>1) Regulator:</strong> No speed variation between settings 1-5, OR works on speed 5 but not lower speeds. <strong>2) Capacitor:</strong> Speed variation works, but max speed (5) weaker than it should be. Fan may need manual push to start. <strong>3) Bearings:</strong> Grinding/clicking noise + slow speed. Fan wobbles or vibrates. Speed improves temporarily when manually pushed. Often <strong>combinations</strong> exist—old fans have both weak capacitor AND dry bearings. Fix cheapest first (lubrication), then capacitor, then regulator.</p>
  </div>
</details>

<details class="bg-white rounded-lg shadow-md">
  <summary class="px-6 py-4 cursor-pointer font-semibold hover:bg-gray-50">
    Q: Why does my electronic regulator cost 3x more than resistor type? Is it worth it?
  </summary>
  <div class="px-6 pb-4 border-t text-gray-700">
    <p class="mt-3"><strong>A:</strong> Yes, electronic regulators are worth the extra ₹200-300. Here's why: <strong>Resistor regulators</strong> waste 20-30W of power as heat, cost you ₹300-500/year in extra electricity. They also produce humming noise and degrade faster. <strong>Electronic regulators</strong> use triac/MOSFET circuits—nearly zero power loss, silent operation, smoother speed control, longer lifespan (8-10 years vs 4-5 years). Total cost of ownership is LOWER with electronic type despite higher upfront cost. Bonus: better speed control and no annoying humming sound.</p>
  </div>
</details>

<details class="bg-white rounded-lg shadow-md">
  <summary class="px-6 py-4 cursor-pointer font-semibold hover:bg-gray-50">
    Q: All my ceiling fans suddenly became slow. What happened?
  </summary>
  <div class="px-6 pb-4 border-t text-gray-700">
    <p class="mt-3"><strong>A:</strong> If ALL fans suddenly slow down (not gradual), it's almost certainly a <strong>voltage issue</strong>, not individual fan problems. Check incoming voltage with multimeter—should be 220-240V AC. Below 200V causes noticeable speed reduction. Common causes in India: Transformer overload (evening peak hours), power grid maintenance, faulty main MCB/connection. Contact your electricity distribution company (DISCOM) to report low voltage. Temporary solution: Run fewer appliances simultaneously. Long-term: Whole-house voltage stabilizer or solar+battery system if you're in area with chronic low voltage.</p>
  </div>
</details>

<details class="bg-white rounded-lg shadow-md">
  <summary class="px-6 py-4 cursor-pointer font-semibold hover:bg-gray-50">
    Q: My BLDC fan was running fine, now stuck at slow speed. What to try?
  </summary>
  <div class="px-6 pb-4 border-t text-gray-700">
    <p class="mt-3"><strong>A:</strong> BLDC troubleshooting sequence: <strong>1) Replace remote battery</strong> (₹20-50)—weak battery is #1 cause. <strong>2) Reset fan electronics</strong>—turn off MCB for 30 seconds, turn back on. Try re-pairing remote (check manual for button sequence). <strong>3) Check wall receiver unit</strong>—if fan has wall-mounted receiver, ensure it's getting power (LED indicator). <strong>4) Test without remote</strong>—some BLDC fans have manual override (pull chain) to bypass remote. If problem persists after these steps, it's likely driver circuit board failure—contact service center (warranty usually covers this). Don't attempt DIY capacitor replacement—BLDC fans don't have capacitors!</p>
  </div>
</details>

<details class="bg-white rounded-lg shadow-md">
  <summary class="px-6 py-4 cursor-pointer font-semibold hover:bg-gray-50">
    Q: Can I replace resistor regulator with electronic one? Are they compatible?
  </summary>
  <div class="px-6 pb-4 border-t text-gray-700">
    <p class="mt-3"><strong>A:</strong> Yes, absolutely! Electronic regulators are backward compatible with all standard AC ceiling fans that use resistor regulators. Wiring is identical—3 wires (input power, neutral, output to fan). <strong>Upgrade benefits:</strong> Better speed control, energy savings (₹300-500/year), silent operation, longer lifespan. <strong>Exception:</strong> BLDC fans require BLDC-compatible electronic regulators—standard electronic regulators designed for AC fans won't work with BLDC. If upgrading BLDC fan from remote-only to wall regulator, buy BLDC-specific regulator (₹500-1200). For all other standard AC fans (Crompton, Havells, Usha, Bajaj, Orient), any electronic regulator rated 60-75W works perfectly.</p>
  </div>
</details>